Radio Licensing & Frequency Assignments

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RADIO SPECIALISTS PTY LTD 

RADIO SALES, LICENSING, CONSULTANCY, DESIGN

Satphones, Commercial Two-way, Aviation, Amateur, CB, GPS, Marine Radio and Surveys

Shop/Office: 243 Seacombe Road, South Brighton, South Australia 5048

Shop Hours: Mon- Fri 9am-5:30pm Sat 9am-5pm

Tel/Fax: 08 8298 3906     International +61 8 8298 3906

Email: mail@radiospecialists.com.au 

ACN 130 186 088

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RADIOS AND LICENCES COMBINED PACKAGE DEALS

Matchmaster

01MM-DE7 VHF/UHF Yagi Antenna 

$79.95

Matchmaster

01MM-DE13 VHF/UHF Yagi Antenna 

$119.95

MATCHMASTER 

Matchmaster antennas. Serious engineering and high quality build products.

VHF and UHF combo caravan antenna.

A lot of people in the major metro areas in the city can't get good reception.

So don't expect to find miracle antennas that work for caravans outside the metro area as they don't exist.

Caravan antennas are usually a trade-off in performance with compact designs as the main feature.

The number of elements ie reflectors and directors is usually less than full size house style antennas so you get less antenna gain and reduced performance. Do preamplifier or "boosters" work ? Generally no because the noise figure of the television set can't be improved with one. Masthead amplifiers are usually only useful for long cable runs to overcome the loss in the cable run.  

You need to check the polarisation for the service area.

For example most city areas use horizontal and most country areas use vertical polarisation.

When the antenna elements are positioned horizontal, you are using horizontal polarisation.

When they are vertical you are using vertical polarisation.

Why do the television channels use horizontal or vertical polarisation for transmitting television signals ?

Because national planning for television reception requires that there is isolation of service areas so that unwanted signals do not interfere with the desired signal. When you are in a horizontal polarisation signal area and you rotate the antenna from horizontal to vertical you will get a very weak signal instead of a strong one. So you need to check the service areas as part of your travel plan, or have your laptop with you and check the internet websites for vertical or horizontal polarisation for the area you are in as you travel.

If you are on the move then an antenna with a few elements can give you some some signal gain which may be worthwhile but don't expect miracles. A booster generally won't do anything.

Want more signal then you need an antenna with more gain 01MM-DE13.

Starting to look like an ordinary house type antenna now isn't it.

It comes down to the engineering principles and what is required to produce the end result.

If you are in a caravan park long term then you probably should use a house type antenna on a mast.

Click here for them.

1. Heatshrink 25mm long is needed to make a professional finish. This can be 10mm dia for just the connector and cable or 13 mm dia if you want it to go over the connector nut to heatshrink the socket on the device as well eg antenna socket or diplexer socket. Slip the heatshrink on the cable.

2.Trim the sheath back 12mm

This is easily done with a box cutter knife.

Press down on the knife as you work it around the cable rather than use a slicing action, as slicing will usually cut the braid inside. 

3. Fold the first layer of braid back over the sheath to expose the first layer of foil.

4. Remove the first layer of foil by peeling it off the cable.  

5. Now fold the second layer of braid back over the sheath. 

6. Now remove 6mm of the inner insulation and foil, leaving 6mm of foil and 6 mm of inner copper exposed.  Make sure there are no foil burrs and that the inner and the foil are not a short circuit.

7.  Trim back the braid that was folded back to 6mm long. 

8. Fit the connector on to the end of the prepared cable. Note that the foil just goes inside the inner part of the connector and is not flared. 

9. Screw the insertion tool onto the connector and with a pushing and twisting motion work the connector on to the cable.

10. Remove the insertion tool.

11. Check that the inner white insulation is flush with the inner lip of the connector and if not repeat the previous steps 9,10. 

12. Crimp the connector on to the cable. Make sure that the crimp jaws are at the back of the connector on the part of it that will crimp readily and not the thicker part up by the nut.

13. Check the connector to make sure it is crimped correctly. The pin should protrude by about 1.5mm.

14. Slide the heatshrink over the connector and with the heat gun apply sufficient heat to make a satisfactory seal. (Or slide the 13mm heatshrink over the nut and connector on the device).